Tropical Print Grainline Hadley Top

Grainline Hadley

Grainline Hadley TopHere’s finished garment #2 from my ongoing Summer 2018 Wardrobe Series.
This is Grainline Studio’s new Hadley Top pattern. I made the sleeveless View B with the v-neck.Grainline Hadley TopThis beautiful tropical print is a silk/cotton blend from Blackbird Fabrics (sadly no longer available). It’s softer than a cotton lawn but less slippery than a charmeuse.Grainline Hadley TopAs soon as this fabric arrived, I knew I wouldn’t be able to do the neck and armhole facings as included in the pattern. This fabric is simply too sheer and any interfaced facings would obviously show through the top layer.
Grainline Hadley TopInstead, I opted for bias tape facings sewn from the same fabric. It works as an alternative however, I sewed smaller seam allowances along the neck and armholes – only 1/4″. Had I sewn the facings, the seam allowances would have been 1/2″. What a difference a quarter of an inch makes! The armholes with the bias facings are a tad snug. I notice it occasionally but it’s not so much of a problem that I would bother fixing it. But I imagine had I used the appropriate seam allowance, the fit would be just right.
Grainline Hadley TopFor the seaming of the shirt, I did French seams on the sides and what I can only describe as open-flat-felled seams on the center front and back. The seam allowances are pressed open, then folded under and topstitched along either side of the seamline.
Grainline Hadley TopThe shirt came together fairly easily otherwise, as Grainline always drafts a good pattern. I assumed that with such a strong a-line shape, I wouldn’t need to grade out at the hips like I normally do (I’m very pear shaped), but looking at the back view, I might need to do a sway back adjustment next time. Maybe I’m just being nit-picky.
Grainline Hadley TopIn any case, this is another winning pattern for me from Grainline. I hope to make more in the future, including a sleeved version for winter time. If winter ever arrives… Winter who?? Never heard of her…
Grainline Hadley Top

Silk Willow Tank + NEWSLETTER!

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

Popping in for a quick blog post while I’m visiting family! This is my third Grainline Willow Tank in as many months. Obviously, it’s becoming a TNT pattern for me.

This fabric was gifted to me by Ella from Me & Ewe. It’s silk charmeuse and I only had about a yard.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I believe the printed bottle motif is Japanese but the writing is so tiny I can’t tell if maybe it’s Chinese?

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I had to heavily starch this fabric and cut it flat rather than on the fold because it’s so slippery.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I think I cut a size four in the bust and six in the hips. The only other change I made was lowering the front neckline.

Dixie DIY Classes

I’m currently in rural Ohio (hence the fields of, I dunno, sorghum?) but if you’re in Austin, TX you probably already know that I teach sewing classes at The Cloth Pocket. But now I’ve started my own email newsletter to help keep you up to date with my scheduled classes.

The newsletter will be sent once a month and feature all my classes for the next two months plus tips and tricks for better sewing!

Click here or on the Classes tab on the menu above to sign up for the newsletter.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt Version 2

Grainline Linden

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

It’s already getting too hot to wear long sleeves in Austin but I loved this chunky, coral, rib knit fabric from Joann so much that I decided to try sewing a “summer sweater.” That’s not a real term but I’m claiming it now.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

This is my second version of Grainline Linden Sweatshirt pattern.

This time I went with View B – slightly cropped without the hem band, shorter sleeves and no cuffs. The boxy shape of this design makes it less restricting in the heat and the shorter length works well for mid-rise shorts.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

I didn’t look closely at the bolt when I bought this fabric but it clearly has some poly in it. My favorite part is the color, though, gotta love that coral pink!

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

I’ve actually taught the Linden several times as a class at The Cloth Pocket so I know the pattern well, even though I’ve only sewn it twice. The entire thing is stitched with a serger and a zig-zag for the hems.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

This shirt is already in heavy rotation in my wardrobe. I think we have a winner!

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

Two Grainline Willow Tanks

Grainline Willow Tank
A double feature for today! Two versions of the Grainline Willow Tank. Perfect for scraps or short yardages!

I love all the Grainline patterns I’ve tried. I’m surprised it took me this long to make this pattern.Grainline Willow Tank

I had enough leftover cotton from my Grainline Farrow dress to whip out my first Willow.

Grainline Willow Tank

It’s a super simple pattern. Only two pieces plus bias for facings. I like the extra deep hem which helps give the bottom of the shirt some structure.

Grainline Willow Tank

For this first shirt, I tried a size 6 but decided the fit was just a wee bit too big. The dart points are also a little low.

Grainline Willow Tank and Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

So for my second version, I made a size 4. Better. The dart points are still slightly too low but they’re not terrible. When I make this a third time I’ll probably just rotate the points slightly higher.

Grainline Willow Tank

This version used a Japanese cotton also from The Cloth Pocket.

Grainline Willow Tank

AND (!!!) I used leftover suede from my A-Frame skirt to make bias binding for the neck and armholes! It’s an effect that’s better felt in person than in pictures but I love the added texture and sheen of the suede against the palm print.

Grainline Willow Tank

I’m teaching a class at The Cloth Pocket for this pattern if you want to learn to make it yourself (or just want to spend some social sewing time with me and a few new friends)!