Seamwork Hayden

Seamwork Hayden

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Continuing on with my #SummerSewing projects (1: Yes, I realize it is October, I’m just now getting around to blogging. 2: It is still 90+ degrees in Texas. Summer never ends…), this is my third and final shirt from my list.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

This is the Seamwork Hayden woven tee, altered to add a peplum skirt rather than a folded hemband.

I also inserted ladder lace into the front and waist seamlines.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

This super lightweight navy Swiss dot cotton came from Fabric.com and the lace from Etsy.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

The button in back is from my stash.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

For my alterations, I began with the cropped version on this shirt. To convert the hemband to a peplum I simply doubled the length of the band pieces, stitched them together at the side seams, gathered the top edge and stitched to the lace. I did not fold the band up like in the original garment. Rather, I simply hemmed the lower edge. This made the shirt about three inches longer than it would have been normally.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

I have to admit, of my #SummerSewing, this is the project I’m least excited about. I think I just wasn’t able to match my vision for this shirt with what the pattern could produce.  My main gripe deals with the style lines. The princess seams aren’t proper “fit” seams. They don’t go over the fullest part of the bust. They sit closer to the side seams. This makes the front of the chest area seem wider than it is.

Basically, I wanted a “loose,” “full” shape but the seam line placement creates an illusion that the shirt is too big. Even though the shirt fits in the shoulders and high bust, it looks like it doesn’t because that lace isn’t floating over the bust apex.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Added to that issue are side-darts which are necessary because the seamlines don’t help the fit. The darts are hard to see but they create an awkward pointy mess where dart meets lace. Because the seamline is pushed toward the side seam, that means the dart point has to end further back from the bust apex than it normally would, only adding to the weird pointy effect. How can I describe it? It’s like the dart point doesn’t even touch my bust. It just floats off in space, away from my body. Like the point is repelled from the rest of me.

I don’t want to say this is a bad design. My combo of light fabric and lace in the seams likely didn’t help things. This is a personal preference issue and while the design and instructions were fine, the end result is just not what I ultimately wanted.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Next time I’ll choose a more traditional princess seam bodice (no darts) and use that as a basis for a shirt. I do think the peplum turned out well. It adds a fun touch to the shirt. Hey, they can’t all be winners!

Hey June Willamette Shirt

Hey June Willamette Shirt

This is another one of my projects from my #SummerSewing wardrobe: the Willamette shirt from Hey June.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

As soon as I saw this pattern I knew I wanted to sew it but never got around to it.

I like this relaxed version of the classic shirt style. Plus the seaming, cuffs and pockets allowed for fun stripe placement.

Hey June Willamette Shirt

The Willamette is my first Hey June pattern I’ve made and it was pretty successful. Easy to follow instructions and quick to sew.

Hey June Willamette Shirt

The only change I made was to lower the center front stitching. The center front was originally oddly high – which may or may not have been my own marking error so don’t quote me on that. My adjusted stitching matches the sample pics on the Hey June listing.

Hey June Willamette ShirtI bought this striped cotton at Joann Fabrics. It’s quite lightweight and thin. I’m actually pretty disappointed in the quality. It wrinkles terribly even though it’s not crisp at all.

Hey June Willamette Shirt

I should have hunted for another fabric like a voile or lawn that had a tighter weave and finer quality threads. But I liked the subtle gray stripe (which I cut on the bias for the main front pieces) and the low price. Just goes to show that you get what you pay for.

Hey June Willamette Shirt

I’d give this shirt a 3 out of 5. Pattern is good. Fabric, not the best. But I certainly want to sew this pattern again with better fabric!

Hey June Willamette Shirt

Tropical Print Grainline Hadley Top

Grainline Hadley

Grainline Hadley TopHere’s finished garment #2 from my ongoing Summer 2018 Wardrobe Series.
This is Grainline Studio’s new Hadley Top pattern. I made the sleeveless View B with the v-neck.Grainline Hadley TopThis beautiful tropical print is a silk/cotton blend from Blackbird Fabrics (sadly no longer available). It’s softer than a cotton lawn but less slippery than a charmeuse.Grainline Hadley TopAs soon as this fabric arrived, I knew I wouldn’t be able to do the neck and armhole facings as included in the pattern. This fabric is simply too sheer and any interfaced facings would obviously show through the top layer.
Grainline Hadley TopInstead, I opted for bias tape facings sewn from the same fabric. It works as an alternative however, I sewed smaller seam allowances along the neck and armholes – only 1/4″. Had I sewn the facings, the seam allowances would have been 1/2″. What a difference a quarter of an inch makes! The armholes with the bias facings are a tad snug. I notice it occasionally but it’s not so much of a problem that I would bother fixing it. But I imagine had I used the appropriate seam allowance, the fit would be just right.
Grainline Hadley TopFor the seaming of the shirt, I did French seams on the sides and what I can only describe as open-flat-felled seams on the center front and back. The seam allowances are pressed open, then folded under and topstitched along either side of the seamline.
Grainline Hadley TopThe shirt came together fairly easily otherwise, as Grainline always drafts a good pattern. I assumed that with such a strong a-line shape, I wouldn’t need to grade out at the hips like I normally do (I’m very pear shaped), but looking at the back view, I might need to do a sway back adjustment next time. Maybe I’m just being nit-picky.
Grainline Hadley TopIn any case, this is another winning pattern for me from Grainline. I hope to make more in the future, including a sleeved version for winter time. If winter ever arrives… Winter who?? Never heard of her…
Grainline Hadley Top

Silk Willow Tank + NEWSLETTER!

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

Popping in for a quick blog post while I’m visiting family! This is my third Grainline Willow Tank in as many months. Obviously, it’s becoming a TNT pattern for me.

This fabric was gifted to me by Ella from Me & Ewe. It’s silk charmeuse and I only had about a yard.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I believe the printed bottle motif is Japanese but the writing is so tiny I can’t tell if maybe it’s Chinese?

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I had to heavily starch this fabric and cut it flat rather than on the fold because it’s so slippery.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I think I cut a size four in the bust and six in the hips. The only other change I made was lowering the front neckline.

Dixie DIY Classes

I’m currently in rural Ohio (hence the fields of, I dunno, sorghum?) but if you’re in Austin, TX you probably already know that I teach sewing classes at The Cloth Pocket. But now I’ve started my own email newsletter to help keep you up to date with my scheduled classes.

The newsletter will be sent once a month and feature all my classes for the next two months plus tips and tricks for better sewing!

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