Lyocell Grainline Adler Dress

Lyocell Alder Dress

Lyocell Grainline Alder Dress

Although I’ve taught the Grainline Alder Dress in a class setting a few times, this is only the second version I’ve sewn for myself! Which is surprising because I absolutely love this pattern.

Alder Line Drawing

This dress ticks off one of my summer sewing goals (I’ve finished another top, just need to take pics, so that makes 4 completed).

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

I bought this slinky lyocell (which is a type of rayon) from Joann fabrics. I’ve been impressed with some of their fabrics lately. Every once in a while you find a gem like this. Unfortunately, everyone else loved it too and they didn’t have enough on one bolt to make this dress. Luckily, they had about a yard left on another bolt – but the color was slightly darker.

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You can barely tell, but I used the darker fabric on the collar, button plackets, and pockets. For the pockets, I turned the top part to the outside, exposing the lighter wrong side of the fabric as a contrast.

At first, I wanted to sew the straight, non-gathered version of the dress but when I realized how slippery this lyocell would be, I determined it would be too difficult to keep the grain straight on such long pattern pieces.

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I knew better than to try to cut and sew lyocell without some kind of stabilizer (like spray starch) but I was feeling daring. I paid the price by having to re-sew the collar pieces because they were off kilter.

The only other problem I had with this dress was a mishap involving the serger. But I easily fixed that by trimming the front body pieces and extending the gathered section toward the center front by about half an inch. Dress saved!

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The buttons came from a friend (thanks Roseanna!). I asked for advice on Instagram to choose between three types of fasteners. I think the snaps won but when I tested one on a scrap, the pressure of the snap points caused the threads in the fabric to pull, making nasty runs. I went with clear buttons instead and I think they’re a good size and work well with the blue fabric.

I topstitched as many of the seams as possible.

This fabric is very drapey and soft but it also slides around on my shoulders and it wrinkles easily. And it tends to pull against the more structured, interfaced button band. So while this fabric is quite nice, it may not have been the best choice for this pattern. But that doesn’t really matter because I love this dress and I’m going to keep wearing it all summer!

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Grainline Linden Sweatshirt Version 2

Grainline Linden

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

It’s already getting too hot to wear long sleeves in Austin but I loved this chunky, coral, rib knit fabric from Joann so much that I decided to try sewing a “summer sweater.” That’s not a real term but I’m claiming it now.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

This is my second version of Grainline Linden Sweatshirt pattern.

This time I went with View B – slightly cropped without the hem band, shorter sleeves and no cuffs. The boxy shape of this design makes it less restricting in the heat and the shorter length works well for mid-rise shorts.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

I didn’t look closely at the bolt when I bought this fabric but it clearly has some poly in it. My favorite part is the color, though, gotta love that coral pink!

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

I’ve actually taught the Linden several times as a class at The Cloth Pocket so I know the pattern well, even though I’ve only sewn it twice. The entire thing is stitched with a serger and a zig-zag for the hems.

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

This shirt is already in heavy rotation in my wardrobe. I think we have a winner!

Grainline Linden Sweatshirt

Two Grainline Willow Tanks

Grainline Willow Tank
A double feature for today! Two versions of the Grainline Willow Tank. Perfect for scraps or short yardages!

I love all the Grainline patterns I’ve tried. I’m surprised it took me this long to make this pattern.Grainline Willow Tank

I had enough leftover cotton from my Grainline Farrow dress to whip out my first Willow.

Grainline Willow Tank

It’s a super simple pattern. Only two pieces plus bias for facings. I like the extra deep hem which helps give the bottom of the shirt some structure.

Grainline Willow Tank

For this first shirt, I tried a size 6 but decided the fit was just a wee bit too big. The dart points are also a little low.

Grainline Willow Tank and Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

So for my second version, I made a size 4. Better. The dart points are still slightly too low but they’re not terrible. When I make this a third time I’ll probably just rotate the points slightly higher.

Grainline Willow Tank

This version used a Japanese cotton also from The Cloth Pocket.

Grainline Willow Tank

AND (!!!) I used leftover suede from my A-Frame skirt to make bias binding for the neck and armholes! It’s an effect that’s better felt in person than in pictures but I love the added texture and sheen of the suede against the palm print.

Grainline Willow Tank

I’m teaching a class at The Cloth Pocket for this pattern if you want to learn to make it yourself (or just want to spend some social sewing time with me and a few new friends)!

Blueprints A-Frame v2.0

Grainline Willow Tank and Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

This is my second version of the BluePrints for Sewing A-Frame skirt. This fabric is black so it may be hard to see the seam lines. You can click on the images to zoom in.

I’ve now taught this pattern as a class a few times and I’m always impressed at how well it fits everyone who has made it. It helps that the pattern includes fitting instructions.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

For this skirt, I again made the pencil skirt version, this time in a faux suede. It’s been several years since I’ve sewn faux suede but this fabric from The Cloth Pocket washes very well and was easy to work with. It’s obviously thinner than the corduroy that I used last time so it tends to wrinkle and show lines where I tuck my shirt into it. Gotta work on that.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

I was concerned that this fabric was a little thin for this project and bounced around the idea of interlining it with something stronger. I’m glad I didn’t do that to the body of the skirt because I liked the result but I should have used a thicker interfacing in the waistband. It has a tendency to roll over time. Not sure if I want to take the waistband off and re-stabilize it. Not sure if that’s even possible now that I’ve already added the buttonhole in back.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

I lined the pockets with the same scraps as my last A-Frame because I had enough fabric left and that fabric is so finely woven and thin I knew it wouldn’t add bulk.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

I still love that lapped zipper in the back. It’s a nice touch you don’t often find in modern clothing.

I hand hemmed the skirt but with this suede, you can still kind of see the line of stitching. It’s less noticeable without the camera flash.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt

I sewed the same size as my first A-Frame and it fits well everywhere… except that darn waistband. It’s just a little too snug. Just goes to show that two different fabrics will not behave the same way with the same pattern.

Ok, I think I’ve now convinced myself that I need to replace that darn waistband…