Tropical Print Grainline Hadley Top

Grainline Hadley

Grainline Hadley TopHere’s finished garment #2 from my ongoing Summer 2018 Wardrobe Series.
This is Grainline Studio’s new Hadley Top pattern. I made the sleeveless View B with the v-neck.Grainline Hadley TopThis beautiful tropical print is a silk/cotton blend from Blackbird Fabrics (sadly no longer available). It’s softer than a cotton lawn but less slippery than a charmeuse.Grainline Hadley TopAs soon as this fabric arrived, I knew I wouldn’t be able to do the neck and armhole facings as included in the pattern. This fabric is simply too sheer and any interfaced facings would obviously show through the top layer.
Grainline Hadley TopInstead, I opted for bias tape facings sewn from the same fabric. It works as an alternative however, I sewed smaller seam allowances along the neck and armholes – only 1/4″. Had I sewn the facings, the seam allowances would have been 1/2″. What a difference a quarter of an inch makes! The armholes with the bias facings are a tad snug. I notice it occasionally but it’s not so much of a problem that I would bother fixing it. But I imagine had I used the appropriate seam allowance, the fit would be just right.
Grainline Hadley TopFor the seaming of the shirt, I did French seams on the sides and what I can only describe as open-flat-felled seams on the center front and back. The seam allowances are pressed open, then folded under and topstitched along either side of the seamline.
Grainline Hadley TopThe shirt came together fairly easily otherwise, as Grainline always drafts a good pattern. I assumed that with such a strong a-line shape, I wouldn’t need to grade out at the hips like I normally do (I’m very pear shaped), but looking at the back view, I might need to do a sway back adjustment next time. Maybe I’m just being nit-picky.
Grainline Hadley TopIn any case, this is another winning pattern for me from Grainline. I hope to make more in the future, including a sleeved version for winter time. If winter ever arrives… Winter who?? Never heard of her…
Grainline Hadley Top

Black Denim Lander Shorts

Black Denim Lander Shorts

True Bias Lander Shorts
I feel I should preface this post with a disclaimer – I did a lot of photoshop trickery in these pics in order to make black denim visible without washing everything else out. But I wanted to be sure that you could see the details on these shorts.

True Bias Lander Shorts

Because I LOVE THESE SHORTS!

But first, let me back up. Back in June, I got in the mood to make a handmade summer wardrobe. I was inspired by fabric textures like linen and rayon and denim – and neutral colors mixed with blue and coral – and loose fitted dresses and tops…

So I whipped up a plan to make nine garments: 3 dresses, 3 tops, 2 bottoms, 1 jacket. Some patterns I already owned (the ones with a blue *) but I still needed to gather fabric and supplies. So far I’ve completed three projects, including these shorts (I’ll share the other two soon). I have the patterns bought or printed for 3 more as well as fabric for 5 of them.

I’m already off to a good start and considering summer in Texas lasts through October I figure I’m on track to finish.

Meanwhile, here’s one of my completed projects:

True Bias Lander Shorts

These are the True Bias Lander Shorts. The Lander pattern has been out for awhile but as per usual, I am behind on all the hot new patterns.

True Bias Lander Shorts

I used a 100% cotton denim from Blackbird Fabrics. The silver buttons are from Joann. They’re like jeans buttons except you can snap them together by hand. Which was a plus because when I tried using the kind you have to hammer together, I kept bending the buttons. On the other hand, two of these buttons kept coming loose. I was able to glue one down but the other I had to replace.

True Bias Lander Shorts

The pattern and instructions were well designed. Everything made sense and came together easily. I loved that the pattern includes one-inch wide side seam allowances for fitting. But I must have sewn these when I was having a puffy day because they fit great when I made them. Now, though, they’re a bit big in the waist and back. If I can tuck a shirt in without having to unbutton the fly – the shorts are too big. I could unpick all the topstitching along the back crotch seam and sew it smaller but… I’m too lazy for that.

True Bias Lander Shorts

These are seriously my go-to shorts for this summer. They’re comfy with a long enough inseam that the legs don’t ride up but they also don’t feel dowdy. This 10oz denim was the perfect weight for this pattern.

True Bias Lander Shorts

The only thing I could have done differently was to interface the waistband more heavily. But then again, the waistband on my storebought jean shorts bend as well, and I never seem to think of that as a problem. Funny how we let issues like that slide with storebought clothes but not homemade clothes?

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

So I have mixed feelings about this dress. It’s the Sewaholic Harwood Dress that was released a few years ago, View A.

The fabric is a rayon from Joann and the orange piping comes from silk crepe scraps. The colors and flowers feel a little 1930s/40s to me and combined with this style it has a kind of vague 40’s housedress feel. But that’s not my issue, I actually really like the print.

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

But the fabric, combined with the pattern design caused some construction issues. Even though I starched the heck out of this rayon, it was still difficult to cut the center front on the straight of grain. I think it’s a little wobbly.

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

I did a full bust adjustment to the gathered bodice pieces, leaving the yokes intact. I added width but actually shortened the front bodice pieces at center front for a specific reason. I’ve tried sewing styles like this with elastic that doesn’t cross the center front at the waist. I’ve noticed that that design causes the center front to droop because it isn’t supported by the stretch of elastic. I think this pattern is designed to have the elastic sit right at the waistline but I worried it would be too low. In the end, I’m glad I made that adjustment because I think it compensated for that inherent “drooping.”

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

Even though I did that wonky FBA, the front gathered bodice sections still need more width – like at least an inch on either side in the front. That, combined with the fact that the elastic does not extend entirely around the front of the dress, means there is constant strain on the buttons causing gaping in front.

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

I had to sew in three sets of hidden snaps. One below the waistline button and one on either side of the button just below the yoke. I also had to move the button just below the yoke further to the edge to lessen the straining across the bust.

Style-wise, I don’t love the slightly wide shoulder line. If the shoulders extended out any further they’d be cap sleeves. I definitely would prefer it if the fabric ended at my shoulder point or further in. They’re just at a weird location and I think they make my shoulders seem wider than they ought to be. It’s just… odd looking.

Sewaholic Harwood Dress

On the plus side, the dress looks is a lot cuter in these pictures than how I felt wearing it in real life. This dress is growing on me but I doubt I’ll sew it again. If I want this type of style (sleeveless, button front, gathered waist), there are similar patterns that I’d rather make.

Silk Willow Tank + NEWSLETTER!

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

Popping in for a quick blog post while I’m visiting family! This is my third Grainline Willow Tank in as many months. Obviously, it’s becoming a TNT pattern for me.

This fabric was gifted to me by Ella from Me & Ewe. It’s silk charmeuse and I only had about a yard.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I believe the printed bottle motif is Japanese but the writing is so tiny I can’t tell if maybe it’s Chinese?

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I had to heavily starch this fabric and cut it flat rather than on the fold because it’s so slippery.

Silk Grainline Willow Tank

I think I cut a size four in the bust and six in the hips. The only other change I made was lowering the front neckline.

Dixie DIY Classes

I’m currently in rural Ohio (hence the fields of, I dunno, sorghum?) but if you’re in Austin, TX you probably already know that I teach sewing classes at The Cloth Pocket. But now I’ve started my own email newsletter to help keep you up to date with my scheduled classes.

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