Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Back again with more #SummerSewing! Almost to the end. After this I just have one more garment to share.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

This is the Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress in a coral rayon twill.

I used leftover white cotton cording and a couple silver eyelets for the drawstring and casing.Papercut Patterns Adrift DressThis is the 7th pattern from Papercut that I’ve tried. They tend to fit me fairly well and overall I like their stying.

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Fun fact, in my original #SummerSewing moodboard, I had the Sway Dress by Papercut in a coral twill. And I even made it! But I used a stretch woven sateen from Joann and that fabric was terrible. You could see the lines of the neck and arm facings through the fabric. You could also see the lines of everything else that was under the fabric… It was unwearable.
Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

I scrapped that dress and made the Adrift instead, with rayon rather than cotton, and I’m so glad I did!

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

I love this dress! The rayon is perfect for the flowy ruffles on the sleeves and skirt. I like the adjustable drawstring at the waist (it’s a faux wrap skirt, the drawstring doesn’t hold the skirt together, it just allows for better fit) and coral is my favorite color.

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Only problems with this dress: 1) darts are a wee bit too high. Not a big deal. 2) Rayon. Rayon gets super wrinkly with wear, and it’s especially noticeable in a solid color. Luckily the wrinkles soften with heat and since it’s always hot in Texas I hope the wrinkles won’t be terrible. Not that I mind too much. This dress is so cute, even with wrinkles!

Embroidered Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress

Deer and Doe Myosotis

This dress is the Deer and Doe Myosotis. Another make from my #SummerSewing series and possibly my favorite piece yet!

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

I ordered this lovely white embroidered cotton from Finch Fabrics. The bodice and skirt lining is plain old white cotton.

 

The clear buttons are the same from my Alder Dress but in a larger size (thanks Roseana!).

Deer and Doe Myosotis

I’ve sewn a few Deer and Doe patterns before and this one was easy to follow.

Deer and Doe MyosotisI loved the styling of this dress. You can get a completely different silhouette depending on fabric type. I used a thick cotton but you could make it with rayon for a drapey dress.

Deer and Doe MyosotisI chose to sew the version with all the gathers because that seemed fun.

Deer and Doe MyosotisThe waistline actually isn’t fitted at all, so the gathers help give an illusion of a waistline. This is actually pretty nice for summer time when you don’t want clothes tight on your body. But that paired with the poofy ruffles and a fabric with a lot of body makes for an especially girly dress.

Deer and Doe Myosotis

Because I had to line my dress I made a couple minor changes to the pattern. I didn’t topstitch down the center front facings. I figured the buttons and buttonholes would keep the facing in place well enough.

I made the lining of the skirt a little less wide and shorter than the overall embroidered skirt. I also nixed the extra ruffle on the skirt lining.

Deer and Doe Myosotis DressI worried the embroidered fabric would be too bulky for the gathers but I think it works – with the help of topstitching to keep the seam allowances from flopping around.

Deer and Doe Myosotis

I love love love this dress! Only one issue – the center front has something like 6 layers (two of which are gathered) not counting seam allowances, and it was difficult to sew across them and get a straight seam. As a result, my center front is a tad wonky. This is one of those details that no one else will notice but me. Nevertheless, I’ll probably go back and hand stitch that part to get a straighter line. In the meantime, I’ll keep wearing it because it’s such a nice dress!

Deer and Doe Myosotis

Lyocell Grainline Adler Dress

Lyocell Alder Dress

Lyocell Grainline Alder Dress

Although I’ve taught the Grainline Alder Dress in a class setting a few times, this is only the second version I’ve sewn for myself! Which is surprising because I absolutely love this pattern.

Alder Line Drawing

This dress ticks off one of my summer sewing goals (I’ve finished another top, just need to take pics, so that makes 4 completed).

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

I bought this slinky lyocell (which is a type of rayon) from Joann fabrics. I’ve been impressed with some of their fabrics lately. Every once in a while you find a gem like this. Unfortunately, everyone else loved it too and they didn’t have enough on one bolt to make this dress. Luckily, they had about a yard left on another bolt – but the color was slightly darker.

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You can barely tell, but I used the darker fabric on the collar, button plackets, and pockets. For the pockets, I turned the top part to the outside, exposing the lighter wrong side of the fabric as a contrast.

At first, I wanted to sew the straight, non-gathered version of the dress but when I realized how slippery this lyocell would be, I determined it would be too difficult to keep the grain straight on such long pattern pieces.

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I knew better than to try to cut and sew lyocell without some kind of stabilizer (like spray starch) but I was feeling daring. I paid the price by having to re-sew the collar pieces because they were off kilter.

The only other problem I had with this dress was a mishap involving the serger. But I easily fixed that by trimming the front body pieces and extending the gathered section toward the center front by about half an inch. Dress saved!

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The buttons came from a friend (thanks Roseanna!). I asked for advice on Instagram to choose between three types of fasteners. I think the snaps won but when I tested one on a scrap, the pressure of the snap points caused the threads in the fabric to pull, making nasty runs. I went with clear buttons instead and I think they’re a good size and work well with the blue fabric.

I topstitched as many of the seams as possible.

This fabric is very drapey and soft but it also slides around on my shoulders and it wrinkles easily. And it tends to pull against the more structured, interfaced button band. So while this fabric is quite nice, it may not have been the best choice for this pattern. But that doesn’t really matter because I love this dress and I’m going to keep wearing it all summer!

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McCall’s 7431

McCalls 7431

McCalls 7431

I had such high hopes for this dress because I LOVED this border print black and white fabric, but after completing the project, the dress feels too bold for my taste.

McCalls 7431

Maybe it’s the bell sleeves or the front lacing or the piping or dizzying stripe? Maybe it’s all of it combined. Some aspect of this design pushed it over the edge into crazyville and now I’m having second thoughts.

Let’s back up…

McCalls 7431

This incredible geometric border print is a semi-sheer poly-blend from Lockstitch & Lustre here in Austin.

Mccalls 7431

I had McCall’s 7431 in my stash and I thought the skirt, sleeves, and lacing band in front offered a good opportunity to highlight the border on the fabric.

McCalls 7431

The pattern itself was fine and the dress came together without any real problems, although the sleeves are a tad tight. I enjoyed adding eyelets/grommets to a modern garment rather than a historical costume.

McCalls 7431

The only change I made was to line the skirt with beige Bemberg rayon.

McCalls 7431

I spent so much time fussy cutting the pieces, sewing perfect piping and hammering eyelets that it seems a shame to waste this dress.

McCalls 7431

Perhaps I’ll try the pattern again in a tamer print. Or with a different sleeve option. As cool as the bell sleeves look, they tend to get in the way whenever I try to use my hands to do normal things like eating food or picking stuff up.

McCalls 7431

My plan now is to lop off the sleeves. I can only hope that losing the bells will help ground this design. But I’ve yet to take the plunge… What do you think I should do? Is the dress fine as is? Am I being overly critical? Should I just embrace the crazy? Or is there some other change I haven’t thought to do?
McCalls 7431