Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

Ok, buckle up. This is the big one. The big sew of the season. A full-on 100% jacket. Or Anorak to be more specific.

This one tested me in many ways and in the end, I’m not sure if I came out on top. In any case, it’s finished and I love it, flaws and all, and it’s only spurred me on to make another.

Let’s dig in:

This is the Closet Case Kelly Anorak which was released last year to much fanfare. I liked the design, classic yet sporty. But it wasn’t until I started planning my trip to Utah that I decided that by golly, I NEEDED a new jacket!

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

I definitely have a preferred “style” when it comes to dressing for the outdoors. Now you might say, “it doesn’t matter what you look like while you’re in the wilderness, so long as it’s functional.” To that, I say, “go rain on someone else’s 7-mile hike!”

For me, my ideal look for traipsing across in the desert/mountains/forest involves a cross between Lara Croft (circa the 2013 reboot) and a 1911 Egyptologist. Basically, I want to look like someone who regularly carries a torch.

So when I saw a jacket at REI that was almost identical to the Kelly but had a shearling hood lining, visions of torch-lit ancient tombs glittered in my eyes.

I immediately ordered some shearling and a couple yards of ripstop cotton from fabric.com (appropriately named “coyote”).

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

I had about a month to finish the jacket but first I needed to address some fit issues.

1. The sleeve was too small. Luckily the sleeve is in two pieces which made it easier to alter.

Not only did I made it wider in the bicep but I lowered the height of the sleeve cap to give me some more rotation in the arm. Before I could only lift the arm in front of me to neck-height. Now I can reasonably scale a rock wall while wearing it. Not that I did, but still.

2. In several versions of this pattern, I see a recurring fit issue. It’s not a huge problem but I kept seeing it enough that it bugged me. Right above the bust, near where the chest yoke seam met the armscye – a fold. A lumpy, slightly angled fold. Always appearing when the wearer had the jacket zipped up. Like the jacket was crying out for a dart.

Luckily I had a friend who loves fitting more than I love complaining. She helped me tackle that dreaded fold in a muslin.

Unfortunately, that fold proved hard to fight. You’d think you could take the fold out at the yoke seam but the yoke doesn’t come anywhere near the fullest part of the bust. And while the yoke piece of the jacket is curved toward the armscye, the body of the jacket is not curved along that seam.

My options were to make a whole new side dart, or try to squeeze the excess fabric into that yoke seam. Neither option was a perfect fix. I ended up forgoing the new dart and trying to curve the yoke seam more. It helped – but didn’t fix it completely.

Closet Case Kelly Anorak(That fold(s) is still visible – though not all the time – with the jacket zipped. And now that you see it on me, I dare you not to see it on other people’s Anoraks as well…)

To adapt the hood I simply cut out the same hood pieces again from the shearling. Then I adapted the lower front piece that gets snapped together to be sewn from the cotton. I didn’t want to try to apply snaps through the fur.

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

Now, I have to admit, fiddling with all those front zipper-area flaps was confusing and frustrating. Following the tutorial online helped.

One thing I found annoying in the instructions, however, was the part where it suggests finishing the hem before adding the zipper and the flaps. So I did. Then when I went to add the flaps and zip I had to unpick some stitches to get it to fit (maybe I stitched too far over??? I don’t know). But after those steps, the instructions essentially said, “if you didn’t hem before, go ahead and hem now.” It likely would have been easier had I hemmed after the zipper section.

Another change I made was to the drawstring. This idea I stole from my REI inspiration piece. Rather than risking my drawstring getting caught on a tree branch or other obstacle while hiking, I turned it into an interior drawstring.

Inside of the jacket, I stitched the drawstring end to the center front zipper area, then I left the casing open at each side seam. The string extends out from the casing at the side seams so it can be tied. You could go fancy and buy one of those spring-press stoppers but I was short on time.

Closet Case Kelly Anorak(on the right you can see the holes made from attaching the snaps which I talk about below. Also, I bound the side seam allowances in bias binding, although I realize I should have just flat-felled them instead. Oh well, they look pretty at least.)

Removing the exterior drawstring meant I needed to adjust the position of the snaps. And here’s where things got messy.

Since I wasn’t going to use the drawstring hardware, I chose not to buy the Kelly’s hardware kit and instead bought snaps from WAWAK.

When the snaps arrived I realized I did not have the correct tool to set them. I have multiple tools for snaps, grommets, eyelets, etc – but not the kind made for this specific type of snap. I immediately ordered a new tool but when it hadn’t arrived by the day before my trip (even though I paid extra for faster shipping, ugh) I got desperate.

I went to the Tandy Leather store in my city and bought a new tool.

I returned home and the new tool doesn’t fit the spring snaps either. Luckily, I had the right frame of mind to buy extra snaps at Tandy. But upon closer inspection, I realized these were ring snaps. Ring snaps are different than spring snaps in that they have a tiny, loose metal ring inside them on one side. This makes them noisy, it also makes them hard to snap on and off. But it was my only choice.

Oh, and did I mention this package of ring snaps only had 10? And I needed 12?

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

Yeah, so my jacket has fewer snaps than it’s supposed to. ANNND when I was out of snaps I tried my darndest to get one of my many tools to work on my original snaps for the left cuff. I got one half of the snap on before I gave up. Instead, I hand stitched the cuff closed. On the outside, it looks like a normal snap but it’s completely nonfunctional.

At this point, I didn’t care anymore.

Oh, and I didn’t think to fold the under facing of out of the way while attaching the snaps, and banging on the metal tools formed tiny holes in the fabric in that facing layer. Ugh. Welp, lesson learned.

I wore this jacket at some point on every day of my trip and I noticed a problem… My pocket stitching started to come undone along the top edge. I realize now I should have stitched these pockets like one stitches back pockets on jeans, with a little triangle of stitching at the opening to prevent this exact sort of thing from happening. I fixed it when I got home.

Closet Case Kelly Anorak(the moment I realized my pocket stitching snapped. I was not happy.)

Ok plans for my next Kelly *rubs hands together like a scheming villain*

  1. Lining – gonna buy the lining pack and make a warmer jacket. This add-on includes a new sleeve that is larger around which I hope will preclude my need for width adjustments. Does anyone know a good source for high-quality flannel? None of that cheap stuff from Joann.
  2. Breast pockets – the pattern has that yoke seam over the chest and is just begging for pockets. A pocket deep enough to hold my phone/keys would do well. I’m thinking interior pockets with an exterior flap as opposed to patch pockets on the outside.
  3. Do the snaps the right way! ‘Nuff said.
  4. Better, more secure stitching around those pockets.
  5. Shearling lined hood again – because I bought a yard of that stuff so I gotta use it up somehow.
  6. I think I’ll do the ripstop cotton again but in a different color. It looks cool up close, was easy to sew with, is a good width, and best of all, it’s cheap!
  7. Carry an actual torch while wearing it.

Closet Case Kelly Anorak

Closet Case Patterns Ebony Dress

Closet Case Ebony Dress

My serger is currently on the fritz so I haven’t been sewing as much, and what I have been sewing are gifts. And since I can’t really share those, I guess I’ll catch up on a few unblogged projects…

This is the Ebony knit Dress by Closet Case Patterns. I made View A with the scoop neck of View B.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

I sewed this dress as a sample for my new class at The Cloth Pocket in December.

My fabric is a cotton sweatshirt terrycloth (also from the cloth pocket) that’s heather black on the right side and white on the wrong side. I rolled up the sleeves in these pics to show off the underside.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

The fabric was stretchy enough for this pattern but the terry backside made the seams a little bulky and hard to serge. Because of that I made the neckband a little thicker to make it easier to work with.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

Overall I liked the pattern and instructions. This swingy dress is simple and quick to sew. I can definitely see myself whipping up a few of these dresses with long sleeves for winter.

My paper pattern included a supplementary sheet with an updated sleeve piece. The original piece had a grading error in the smaller sizes but when I measured the new updated sleeve piece in my size I knew it would be too tight for my arms.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

I adjusted the sleeve so that I didn’t change the length of the sleeve cap much but made the cap and bicep wider by almost an inch. Which was good, because I definitely needed it with this fabric. If my fabric were stretchier I could probably get away without it but I didn’t want to take the chance with this thicker sweatshirt knit.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

This dress is VERY voluminous at the hem which is why you have to use wide fabric.

Closet Case Ebony Dress

I know I’ll make this pattern again, likely from a different type of fabric — and depending on what fabric I use I’ll probably use some kind of stabilizer on that curved hem.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

So apparently this pattern is really popular right now but I hadn’t even heard of the company until recently. A number of indie pattern companies were hosting sales to benefit Harvey relief and that’s how I found Chalk and Notch. I liked the Fringe’s casual modern design so I bought a copy.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

The fabric is a Japanese cotton from The Cloth Pocket (no longer available, unfortunately). It’s very soft and finely woven but wrinkles terribly. Oh, well.

I liked both Views but I decided on View B for this version. The ties are set into the front darts. It has side seam pockets with tacks at the openings. The neckline is interesting and I appreciated the front neck facing that extends all the way to the waist so it’ll never flip out.

The pattern instructions were good – I appreciated being able to print just my size using the layers feature and the illustrations were clear and easy to follow.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

I gotta say I REALLY like this dress. The armholes aren’t cut too low, the hem curves up on the sides with a nice shape, and the waist is ever-so-slightly higher than natural which I find to be a modern touch.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

I think it fits quite well, too, which leads me to my one issue. And it’s not so much an issue for me particularly but it might be for someone else.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress
Perhaps I cut the wrong size, a size too small, but looking at these pics the fit seems fine. But the dress is a pullover and in the company’s samples and most of the tester images, the dress seems loose at the waist.

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

On my version, the waist is loose but not by much and I have to gently squeeze the dress over my bust. I can still take it on and off fairly easily but I would worry that someone with a very large bust compared to her waist measurement would have trouble putting on the dress and a cursory google search didn’t reveal any reviews from especially busty seamstresses…

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

UPDATE: I just re-checked the pattern text. The bust measurements for a size 4 are 34″ but the finished waist size on the 4 is only 31″. There are no closures, you’re supposed to pull the dress over your head. 31″ is smaller than 34″ which explains the need to squeeze. So again, if you have a large difference between bust and waist, maaaaayyybe size up in the waist to get it over your bust…

Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

Anyway, I would DEFINITELY make this dress again. I want to try View A with the buttons as well as a shirt version. Future TNT pattern, maybe?

Cropped Closet Case Kalle Shirt

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

These pics were taken a couple days before we were inundated with rain from Hurricane Harvey. We’re alright here in Austin. It’s just been a nonstop downpour. I’m hunkered down indoors in the meantime with nothing much to do except sew or read or watch the news. And the news just keeps getting worse.

If you’re looking to help out the victims of the storm, please donate to a disaster relief agency or a local charity.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

Back to sewing related topics: This is my second version of the Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirt.

My first make was a shortened version of B with the popover style and regular collar. This time I made version A – cropped with a Mandarin collar, hidden button placket, and deep pleat in back.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

I actually got this fabric from a store in Houston when I went this spring for a birthday trip. It’s a finely woven, cotton chambray (black and white) shirting. Unlike my first Kalle, this fabric is crisp and holds its shape well which accentuates the boxy shape (but also shows more wrinkles).

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt
(hidden button placket)

The hidden buttons are some plain black plastic from my stash. The one visible button is a leftover patina-ed metal piece.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

Usually, I wear this shirt with the collar unbuttoned. Next time I sew this pattern I’ll need to make adjustments to the neckline like lowering it in the front. This is probably a side effect of needing some kind of shoulder adjustment which is common.

As it is, if I button the collar it’s just a little too tight. I never noticed this in my last Kalle because I never button the collar on that version.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

I didn’t make any fitting changes and because it was my second time making this pattern I finished it pretty quick. The hidden placket can seem a little daunting with all the folding but just follow the instructions and it’ll go smoothly.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

The shirt is definitely cropped so if you don’t love that look I suggest sewing one of the other views in the pattern. As for me, my wardrobe pairings are a little limited. I have a few high-waist skirts I can wear with it, or these higher-waist jeans. This shirt may not be as versatile as my first version but since I like the fashion-forward style so much, I’ve made the effort to keep it in heavy rotation.

Closet Case Kalle Cropped Shirt

Could this be a new TNT pattern for me? I should try to sew the dress version next…