Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Back again with more #SummerSewing! Almost to the end. After this I just have one more garment to share.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

This is the Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress in a coral rayon twill.

I used leftover white cotton cording and a couple silver eyelets for the drawstring and casing.Papercut Patterns Adrift DressThis is the 7th pattern from Papercut that I’ve tried. They tend to fit me fairly well and overall I like their stying.

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Fun fact, in my original #SummerSewing moodboard, I had the Sway Dress by Papercut in a coral twill. And I even made it! But I used a stretch woven sateen from Joann and that fabric was terrible. You could see the lines of the neck and arm facings through the fabric. You could also see the lines of everything else that was under the fabric… It was unwearable.
Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

I scrapped that dress and made the Adrift instead, with rayon rather than cotton, and I’m so glad I did!

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

I love this dress! The rayon is perfect for the flowy ruffles on the sleeves and skirt. I like the adjustable drawstring at the waist (it’s a faux wrap skirt, the drawstring doesn’t hold the skirt together, it just allows for better fit) and coral is my favorite color.

Papercut Patterns Adrift Dress

Only problems with this dress: 1) darts are a wee bit too high. Not a big deal. 2) Rayon. Rayon gets super wrinkly with wear, and it’s especially noticeable in a solid color. Luckily the wrinkles soften with heat and since it’s always hot in Texas I hope the wrinkles won’t be terrible. Not that I mind too much. This dress is so cute, even with wrinkles!

Seamwork Hayden

Seamwork Hayden

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Continuing on with my #SummerSewing projects (1: Yes, I realize it is October, I’m just now getting around to blogging. 2: It is still 90+ degrees in Texas. Summer never ends…), this is my third and final shirt from my list.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

This is the Seamwork Hayden woven tee, altered to add a peplum skirt rather than a folded hemband.

I also inserted ladder lace into the front and waist seamlines.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

This super lightweight navy Swiss dot cotton came from Fabric.com and the lace from Etsy.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

The button in back is from my stash.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

For my alterations, I began with the cropped version on this shirt. To convert the hemband to a peplum I simply doubled the length of the band pieces, stitched them together at the side seams, gathered the top edge and stitched to the lace. I did not fold the band up like in the original garment. Rather, I simply hemmed the lower edge. This made the shirt about three inches longer than it would have been normally.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

I have to admit, of my #SummerSewing, this is the project I’m least excited about. I think I just wasn’t able to match my vision for this shirt with what the pattern could produce.  My main gripe deals with the style lines. The princess seams aren’t proper “fit” seams. They don’t go over the fullest part of the bust. They sit closer to the side seams. This makes the front of the chest area seem wider than it is.

Basically, I wanted a “loose,” “full” shape but the seam line placement creates an illusion that the shirt is too big. Even though the shirt fits in the shoulders and high bust, it looks like it doesn’t because that lace isn’t floating over the bust apex.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Added to that issue are side-darts which are necessary because the seamlines don’t help the fit. The darts are hard to see but they create an awkward pointy mess where dart meets lace. Because the seamline is pushed toward the side seam, that means the dart point has to end further back from the bust apex than it normally would, only adding to the weird pointy effect. How can I describe it? It’s like the dart point doesn’t even touch my bust. It just floats off in space, away from my body. Like the point is repelled from the rest of me.

I don’t want to say this is a bad design. My combo of light fabric and lace in the seams likely didn’t help things. This is a personal preference issue and while the design and instructions were fine, the end result is just not what I ultimately wanted.

Seamwork Hayden Shirt (modified)

Next time I’ll choose a more traditional princess seam bodice (no darts) and use that as a basis for a shirt. I do think the peplum turned out well. It adds a fun touch to the shirt. Hey, they can’t all be winners!

Embroidered Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress

Deer and Doe Myosotis

This dress is the Deer and Doe Myosotis. Another make from my #SummerSewing series and possibly my favorite piece yet!

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

I ordered this lovely white embroidered cotton from Finch Fabrics. The bodice and skirt lining is plain old white cotton.

 

The clear buttons are the same from my Alder Dress but in a larger size (thanks Roseana!).

Deer and Doe Myosotis

I’ve sewn a few Deer and Doe patterns before and this one was easy to follow.

Deer and Doe MyosotisI loved the styling of this dress. You can get a completely different silhouette depending on fabric type. I used a thick cotton but you could make it with rayon for a drapey dress.

Deer and Doe MyosotisI chose to sew the version with all the gathers because that seemed fun.

Deer and Doe MyosotisThe waistline actually isn’t fitted at all, so the gathers help give an illusion of a waistline. This is actually pretty nice for summer time when you don’t want clothes tight on your body. But that paired with the poofy ruffles and a fabric with a lot of body makes for an especially girly dress.

Deer and Doe Myosotis

Because I had to line my dress I made a couple minor changes to the pattern. I didn’t topstitch down the center front facings. I figured the buttons and buttonholes would keep the facing in place well enough.

I made the lining of the skirt a little less wide and shorter than the overall embroidered skirt. I also nixed the extra ruffle on the skirt lining.

Deer and Doe Myosotis DressI worried the embroidered fabric would be too bulky for the gathers but I think it works – with the help of topstitching to keep the seam allowances from flopping around.

Deer and Doe Myosotis

I love love love this dress! Only one issue – the center front has something like 6 layers (two of which are gathered) not counting seam allowances, and it was difficult to sew across them and get a straight seam. As a result, my center front is a tad wonky. This is one of those details that no one else will notice but me. Nevertheless, I’ll probably go back and hand stitch that part to get a straighter line. In the meantime, I’ll keep wearing it because it’s such a nice dress!

Deer and Doe Myosotis

Seamwork Leonora Skirt

Seamwork Leonora
This skirt is one of my favorite makes so far for my #SummerSewing wardrobe.

Summer 2018 Wardrobe Mood Board

I wanted a simple straight skirt so I went with the Seamwork Leonora pattern.

I bought this 100% cotton bull denim from Joann Fabrics. For a skirt like this, I didn’t want a stretch denim.

Seamwork Leonora

I bought the buttons and round rivets from WAWAK.

Seamwork Leonora

The pattern was pretty good and easy to follow. I’m pretty pear shaped so I had to grade up two sizes in the hips.

Seamwork Leonora

I also needed a severe swayback adjustment. Normally I would scoop out the back waistline to make that adjustment. This time I trimmed the bottom edge of the yoke along the yoke seam. I ended up cutting out about 1″ in length at the center back along that seam!

Seamwork Leonora

In the end the I think the fit looks pretty good, although I could probably steam the side seams a bit more.

Seamwork Leonora

The only mistake I made was somehow cutting the belt loops too short. They probably need an extra half inch in length. Along the bottom side, the loops shouldn’t be attached so close to the waistband. There ought to be a little extra space between where the loops attach and the waistband seam to help accommodate a wide belt. I doubt I’ll wear a belt with this skirt but the short loops did create a problem with the rivets. The pattern is designed to use rivets to attach the bottom of each belt loop to the skirt but because my loops were too short, I had to attach them with stitching. This resulted in too much bulk for the rivets to stick through.

Seamwork Leonora

Despite that minor snafu, this skirt is a definite winner. I’m glad I took the extra time and money to add the rivets on the pockets and sides.

Seamwork Leonora

And even though the fabric is white, it hasn’t gotten very dirty, even while cooking! It’s been quite a useful bottom layer in my wardrobe so far. 5 out of 5!

Seamwork Leonora